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A restaurant review of Jia Tella's, by local columnist Kristin Brownstone
Grilled salmon with shredded green mango. Catfish steamed with coconut milk and collard greens, wrapped in a banana leaf. Those used to be items diners would need to schlep over Highway 17 to get.
No longer. Making a bold entry onto the Scotts Valley dining scene this summer is Jia Tella’s, specializing in cuisine from Cambodia.
“Everything on our menu are things I love,” says owner Jason Revino, who modeled the restaurant after a favorite eatery in San Jose, Chez Sovan.
Revino says he saw demand for a casual restaurant with outdoor seating and good, unusual food right here in Scotts Valley. The timing felt right, so he opened one.
The restaurant’s interior is casual, with warm, earthy tones. Artwork by local artists is featured on the walls — at the moment, pieces by Leah Parks and Amy Glover Martin. Food is ordered at a walk-up counter with a chalkboard menu, and dining is available inside or out on the umbrella-shaded patio.
We checked out Jia Tella’s one balmy Friday evening. Less than a month after opening, the place was fairly busy, with a steady line at the ordering counter. We chose patio seating, which was great for the kids. Taking their cue from two of the owners’ children, who could be seen hanging around and clearing tables, my kids played hide-and-seek while waiting for their food to arrive. Thankfully, no one seemed to notice or care.
The children’s menu consists of a bento-box-style dinner ($4.95) with a choice of kabob or fried chicken. Mine chose the latter, which was accompanied by rice (brown if you choose), spring rolls and bottomless fountain drinks. The chicken was hot, crispy and well-seasoned, and the portion was ample for children younger than 12.
The adults started off with the Tomato Pineapple Sour Soup ($8.95 small/$11.95 large). A small pot easily allows for four small bowls. We chose shrimp for the soup meat, which was combined with large chunks of tomato, pineapple, lemongrass and lots of minced garlic. The “sour” flavor comes from a subtle touch of tamarind. The soup was light and healthy, yet full of flavor, making a nice first course.
For heartier fare, we chose an order of the Stir-Fried Ginger ($8.95 small/$11.95 large) and the Amok with catfish ($8.95).
I, personally, was enamored with the Amok. Artfully wrapped in a banana leaf pinched closed with toothpicks, the filling was a steamed melange of lemongrass, kaffir limes, catfish, collard greens, coconut milk, fish sauce, galangal and eggs to hold it together. The delicate flavors blended in perfect harmony with a taste of coconut milk one moment giving way to a hint of lime. The moist Amok could easily be eaten alone or paired with rice.
The Stir-Fried Ginger was exactly what it says — a huge plate of julienne-cut ginger, stir fried with a choice of beef, pork, chicken or tofu. We chose the beef. My husband is a ginger fanatic, so he was most pleased with the abundance. The “special sauce” for the stir fry was savory and well-seasoned. I found that four or five bites were enough, as the ginger was still firm enough to pack a spicy wallop.
To ensure that his restaurant closely resembled its Silicon Valley inspiration, Revino hired the owner of Chez Sovan to be his consultant, set up his menu and train his chefs, Channy Plong, Chia H. Lam and Neng Pov — all authentic Cambodian chefs.
Of the 50 items on Chez Sovan’s menu, 20 found their way to Jia Tella’s. Tweaks include offering brown rice and making all sauces vegetarian-based.
Jia Tella’s small bar has a large TV screen running ESPN, with wines from local wineries and beers on tap — again, all Revino’s favorites.
For dessert, there’s either a gelato bar at the counter — boasting gelato from The Latest Scoop in Berkeley — or Cambodian-style Fried Banana or Mango and Sticky Rice dishes (both $6.95) from the menu. We opted for the banana — a vertically sliced banana dipped in batter and deep-fried. The hot, crispy exterior gave way to a soft, sweet center. A scoop of coconut gelato on the side provided a nice hot-cold juxtaposition.
The great thing about dining at Jia Tella’s is that you can just get up and leave when you’re finished. No need to wait for a server to bring you a bill, because you pay up front at the counter. Same goes for mid-meal needs, such as extra napkins, plates, etc. — they’re all out for diners to help themselves, strategically designed for lunch diners keeping an eye on the clock.
And the name? It’s an amalgam of the names of the family that owns the place — Jason and Theresa and children Jacob, Mia, Sophia and Isabella. For help with that puzzle, stop by their Web site — www.jiatellas.com.
Kristin Brownstone is a writer and marketing consultant who lives in Scotts Valley. Food has been her lifelong passion, and she is an avid cook and restaurant diner. Send ideas, comments and suggestions to
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Great review, Kristin! I've taken my toddler to Jia Tella's and we really enjoyed our food. We also loved the atmosphere, which was perfect for bringing along little ones. We especially liked sitting outdoors in the patio area. The staff is friendly and our dish (noodles with chicken) was excellent. Next time we aim to try the gelato.