The Wine Lover: Each bottle is unique

There are three main factors that go into each bottle of wine. These three “ingredients” shape what the wine is and what it will become.
The first is region, often called by the French name “terroir.” The second is the winemaker and his or her style and paradigm. Third, there is the varietal the grape grower chooses to grow.
Terroir is arguably the most important of the three. Terroir means growing conditions — it means climate, soil, weather, latitude, south-facing hills, riverbeds, morning fog and afternoon sunshine. The dynamics of these elements greatly influence the outcome of a wine and usually shape the winemaker’s approach. The same varietal grown in California or grown in France will turn out drastically different.
Chardonnay is a perfect example. A Burgundian Chablis is austere, acidic, light- to medium-bodied and oftentimes minerally. A typical California chardonnay is buttery and full-bodied, with flavors like banana, vanilla and wood. One is Doris Day — she’s beautiful, and she can sing. The other is Jerome Bettis — he’s clumsy, but he’s got good moves, and he still gets to the end zone.
Terroir is the foundation of the house. Every wine ever made has had its beginnings in terroir.
The winemaker is also quite important. Most winemakers will agree that it is their job to display, as well as they can, the place the wine was grown. A great wine will always embody its home terroir and region. How the winemaker chooses to do this is another story.
Burgundy and Champagne are two French regions relatively close to each other, and yet their thoughts on winemaking couldn’t be much more different. Burgundy never blends its varietals or its vintages. Champagne blends both. Burgundy makes still wine, and Champagne (of course) makes sparkling. Neither approach is wrong — actually, both are right at the same time. They are simply two different styles of winemaking, and their outcomes are two completely different wines.
Other components that very from region and winemaker are: Which wood should I use, and how much? Should I put my wine through malolactic fermentation? Should I leave any residual sugar? And many more.
Lastly, the varietal, like the terroir, is responsible in part for the flavors and bouquet of the wine. I put the varietal as least important of the three, because I believe that the terroir often defines what varietal is grown. Thus, grape growers and winemakers don’t even think about varietal until they have first thought about region and terroir. It’s like deciding what icing you’re going to put on a cake before you’ve decided what kind of cake you’re going to make. It’s putting the cart before the horse.
Certainly, a Barbera from Piedmont and a Nebbiolo from Piedmont will taste different, because they are two different varietals. But it is still the region (Piedmont) that defines them.
On another note, I had a wonderful time in Asia. Although they don’t really have any wine to speak of, I’m happy to be home and writing again. Que sera, sera!
• Austin Twohig is a certified sommelier and partner in The Santa Cruz Experience, which conducts winery tours in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Contact him at au****@th********************.com.