Wine Lover: Nebbiolo: The king of Italy

Nebbiolo is not a household name among the general wine-drinking public, but it should be.
Although it is not an everyday varietal, it is certainly among the most revered of red wines. As cabernet sauvignon is to Bordeaux or Napa, nebbiolo is to the Piedmont region of Italy.
Nebbiolo is Italian for little fog. There are two subregions within Piedmont, Barolo and Barbaresco, where the Italians have mastered making their principal grape into legendary wine. Wines made from nebbiolo are known for their exceptional structure, tannin and ability to be aged.
Most Barolos (and Barbarescos) need a minimum of 10 years’ bottle aging and often aren’t ready until 20 years or more. Producers of DOCG Reserve Nebbiolo don’t release the wines until a minimum of five years of aging is complete. (DOCG is the highest government rating in Italy.) Many, however, are released long after that to assure they are not drunk too young.
Some characteristics of nebbiolo include leather, tobacco, smoke, tar, mushrooms and earth. Nebbiolo, when produced by a master like Angelo Gaja, can be earth-shatteringly delicious.
So why is nebbiolo not as famous as other major grapes, like cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir? The answer, simply put, is that the latter two are world travelers, and nebbiolo is a homebody. As great a varietal as nebbiolo is, it just does not do as well outside of the Piedmont region.
That being said, there are a couple of Santa Cruz wineries who have been courageous enough to give it a go. The Bargettos up at Soquel Vineyards planted some estate nebbiolo a few years back, no doubt a decision influenced by their Italian heritage. The other adventurer is Randall Grahm, founder of the well-known Bonny Doon Winery — though, admittedly, Grahm is eccentric enough to make wine from even the most obscure of varietals.
Any decent wine shop will carry at least a couple of Barolos and Barbarescos; however, these wines are rarely under $50. You should be able to find some less expensive Piedmont examples in any larger wine shop.
If you are looking for a pairing, remember that nebbiolo is a big red wine, not to be underestimated. A pairing with steak or something equally heavy would be ideal. Good luck, and enjoy.
Austin Twohig is a certified sommelier and partner in The Santa Cruz Experience, which conducts winery tours in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Contact him at au****@th********************.com.