Wine Lover: Some worthwhile ways to make wine at home

I recently received an e-mail inquiry about the steps to make wine at home. My initial reply was that it isn’t easy, and there’s a lot more to it than crushing grapes and watching them ferment. However, if you really want to give it a go, I think there are three reasonable approaches.
First of all, the home winemaking kits are not worth trying. Not only is it difficult, but you won’t end up with much wine or anything worthwhile.
The first step I would take is finding a class on viticulture or wine-making. That way, you can get familiar with some terminology and get a general idea of the process.
One good thing you can try is finding a wine co-op through friends or on Craiglist.org — or through any other medium you can think of. Winemakers are always looking for helpers around harvest time. If you can find a winery or co-op where you can help out, you will learn quite a bit very quickly.
Another option is to use a company that helps you make your own barrel of wine. Vino Tabi, on the west side of Santa Cruz, is a good nearby option, and there are a couple of companies in San Francisco that provide this service, as well. While this is a sure way to get involved in making wine, it’s expensive, and it doesn’t truly end up being your barrel of wine. Of course, that means that if the wine turns out bad, you have someone to point a finger at other than yourself.
The last option is truly diving in and doing it yourself. The first step is to buy one or two used barrels (not more than one or two years used). Those usually run about $200 each. You can get an older one for less money, but remember, the more a barrel has been used, the less oak it will impart to wine.
You will also need to find a source to buy grapes. Aim to buy a half-ton on your first try. Grapes vary greatly in price — you might find a half-ton free, or you might pay $2,500 for something of very high quality. Bear in mind, the quality of the grapes will largely determine the quality of the wine.
Once you have your grapes, you will need to find someone who will allow you to use their crusher-destemmer for a day and then ferment the grapes in a small vat. You will also need to use a press once the grapes have finished fermenting. Make sure to find someone to consult during this process — it is highly involved, and many things can go awry.
It is risky to just dive in like this, because you might end up with something barely drinkable after a lot of hard work. However, you might end up with something very rewarding, as well.
Good luck to all those brave enough to try. Cheers!
Austin Twohig is a certified sommelier and partner in The Santa Cruz Experience, which conducts winery tours in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Contact him at austin@thesantacruz
experience.com.